Mead: Nectar of the Gods

M ead, a honey wine, is probably the most ancient of fermented beverages. Its production and ceremonial use may well have begun in the proto-cities of the ancient Near East more than eight thousand years ago. Our remote ancestors drank mead and attributed the state of intoxication to the spirit of a god. Historian Jane Harrison recognizes the traditional mead-making craft as a precursor of classical Greek religion:

"... there was a time when leavened bread was not, and men ate porridge cooked or uncooked, so before the coming of the vine men drank a honey drink. And as the conservative gods, long after men ate fermented bread, were faithful to their porridge, so long after men drank wine they still offered to the gods who were there before the coming of the vine 'wineless libations,' nêphália." (1)

"Mythology has left us dim hints as to the functions of certain ancient maiden prophetesses at Delphi called Thriae." (2)

"The Thriae are nurses like the Maenads, they rave in holy madness (thuíousin) ... but their inspiration is not from Bacchos, the wine-god ... ; it is from a source, from an intoxicant yet more primitive, from honey. They are in a word 'Melissae,' honey-priestesses, inspired by a honey intoxicant ..." (3)

"... not only the priestesses of Artemis at Ephesus were 'Bees,' but also those of Demeter, and, still more significant, the Delphic priestess herself was a Bee." (4)

In more recent centuries, newlyweds drank mead daily in celebration of the first month of married life, believing that this would ensure the birth of sons. This is the origin of the word, honeymoon.

Cindy Renfrow has compiled over a hundred distinct recipes for mead, many from a compilation printed in 1669. (5) This appears to be a Welsh text, The Closet of the Eminently Learned Sir Kenelme Digby, Knight, Opened. (6) These recipes encompass a great volume of medieval experimentation with herbs, spices, and fruit additives. One also observes the great concern with methods of purifying the water of sediment and other undesirable substances. Rainwater was often used, allowing several months for any dust particles to settle out. A number of the recipes call for a lengthy series of preliminary boiling and skimming operations to render the water suitable for use.

Most interesting is a simple mead formula recorded by Pliny the Elder in the year 77 CE:

"... a wine is also made of only water and honey ... adding one part of old honey to three parts of water, and then keeping the mixture in the sun for forty days after the rising of the Dog-star. Others pour it off after nine days and then cork it up. This beverage is called in Greek 'water-honey', hydromeli; with age it attains the flavor of wine." (7)

I followed this proportion of water to honey in making my own meads. Technically, a mead prepared with spices is known as a metheglin. Endless varieties are possible. Typically, I like to add three or four slices of fresh ginger, a stick of cinnamon, and a teaspoon or so of rosemary to a gallon batch of mead. A bit of citrus peel makes a nice addition. Cloves in any quantity tend to add a bitterness not to everyone's taste. I recommend dispensing with cloves altogether or using but one or two per gallon.

Several of the commercially-produced meads I had sampled in years past were more than a bit disappointing in taste. My family and friends encouraged me to try my own hand at it, and so I did, beginning just two months ago. Here below are the practical steps which I have used in producing mead:

1. Heat 3 liters of pure (reverse osmosis) water.

2. Add spices to near-boiling water; typically cinnamon stick, a few slices of fresh ginger root, and approx. 1 teaspoon rosemary.

3. Add 1 liter (approx. 1.1 kg) honey. I have used raw local (Arizona) honey (mesquite and wildflower predominating).

4. Stir thoroughly to dissolve honey, quickly removing the mix from heat, to preserve volatile components of the honey.

5. Add a little warm water to dissolve dry yeast placed in the bottom of a clean gallon storage pitcher. A suitable pitcher has a closed cover, but not fully airtight.

6. Allow mix to cool to 40 - 45 Celsius range, about the warmth of milk for baby's bottle. Transfer from pot to storage pitcher, mixing with the yeast.

7. Wrap pitcher loosely in black plastic to protect against intense sunlight and provide a bit of insulation. A delicate fragrance will grow as fermentation begins.

8. Allow to stand four days, then strain spices from partially fermented mixture. You may, in straining it, hear the buzzing of the bees. The mead priestesses of old must have found this a wondrous sound indeed!

9. Return to pitcher to continue fermentation or transfer to reusable strong bottles. Good bottles are those sold with Fischer d'Alsace or Grolsch beer. The mead can be refrigerated in these if carbonation is desired. Be careful when opening! The yeast could also be filtered to produce a clearer still mead.

10. The mead can be enjoyed in a few days or allowed to age for months. Enjoy!

References:

(1) Harrison, Jane. Prolegomena to the Study of Greek Religion. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1991., p.90.
(2) ibid., p.441.
(3) ibid., p.442.
(4) ibid.
(5) Renfrow, Cindy. A Sip Through Time: A Collection of Old Brewing Recipes. self-published, Pottstown, PA: 1995.
(6) Dilley, J., Dunn, D., Manteufel, T., Tighe, M. The Mead-Lovers README file. revision 14, 1995.
(7) Pliny the Elder, Natural History, Book XIV, section XX, p.261, H. Rackham, ed. Harvard Univ. Press. Cambridge, MA: 1938.

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